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 Post subject: Having starting problems
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:03 pm
Posts: 31
First Name: Ed
Location: Atlanta GA
Very recently, my 67 decided not to even crank.

A few items - was starting and running well just 5 days ago.

Rebuilt 327 v4 with Painless wiring harness.

My suspicion is the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter (starter is making zero sound now)

Suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 7:41 am 
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First Name: Jeff
Location: Aurora IL
Grab you favorite electrical tester and start at the ignition switch. Should have power on the orange going in and purple going out when in the crank position. if purple is hot go to neutral safety switch if auto and test there. last is check at solenoid. If you have power at the solenoid the solenoid may be bad or the positive post may be burnt which can be repaired

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:03 pm
Posts: 31
First Name: Ed
Location: Atlanta GA
Thanks for the input ... I got into this more deeply and determined with the multi-meter that I was getting as much as a 3 amp draw (jumping the red off the battery to the cable) when there should have only been 0.1 or less. Battery tested good.

While I was fooling around putting neg battery lead back on I heard the starter "spark" then the solenoid going back to engaged position. Car started immediately after so the ignition switch was not the issue. I am replacing the battery leads first (relatively new car to me - not the best battery leads) and then will see if I have to replace the starter solenoid.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:44 am
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First Name: Jim
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If you can reach it, jumping from the big top battery terminal to the small inner starter post with a screwdriver will test the starter.


Attachments:
GM starter solenoid wiring.gif
GM starter solenoid wiring.gif [ 75.8 KiB | Viewed 180 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 11:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:03 pm
Posts: 31
First Name: Ed
Location: Atlanta GA
Have finally reached the solution point ...

First the battery poles were crud and I replaced them along with the positive lead to the starter.

Second - the ignition switch (original) would allow the key to be removed if even slightly in the accessory position. Figuring this out was the second part of the fix. Now I leave a turn signal on when I shut the car off and ensure accessory power is not inadvertently engaged.


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